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 Olaf
 
Location: Wilmingon, NC
Gender: Male
 |  |  | Grapple tutorial
< on 3/26/2009 9:39 PM >
|  | | | There was a thread started on this some time ago but it had not been added to for a while and was put in the graveyard. I am here to revisit this topic considering how often it comes up.
Grapples can be wonderfully useful tools under the right circumstances. I have found that instead of using them to scale multiple stories they are better suited (and far safer) for gaining access to something that is just out of reach. I made a grapple from a hooked rock piton (Black Diamond makes good ones) after taking off excess material. I then looped a 7mm (9 strand paracord) static line and tied it together with a square knot at one end and equally spaced knots along it's length with the hook on the opposite end using a loop knot. The knots in the ropes length make the hand and footholds and at the end opposite the hook I placed a steel ring 2" in diameter with a 1/4" thickness.
This is useful if you want to scale a fire escape or some other pipe/pole type structure. You throw the loop over the pipe and let it's weight pull it back to the ground. Then thread the hook through the steel ring and pull the line taught. This makes for a perfectly secure anchor point which cannot come undone. If you wanted to use this method for going down instead of up here is how you get the ring off the pipe/whatever.
After you loop the ring to the anchor point you tie another smaller line (550 cord is invaluable) to the end of the ring. After you have descended the main line all you have to do is pull on the secondary line and it will disengage the ring which will come right down to you.
I mentioned in my fence bypass tutorial > ( http://www.uer.ca/...d=1&threadid=36976 ) how to make your hook quieter. What you do is carefully wrap several layers of electrical tape (most any tape will work, I prefer electrical) around the hook except the tip of the hook and any teeth it may have (if you used a rock piton like I did for this example). If you choose to use the hook/ring combination be sure to do this to the ring as well. This will greatly dampen the sounds of impact as you attempt to secure the hook.
The length of rope you use for your hook is entirely up to you however I have found that between 6' - 15' is all that is needed. Most things I find need a hook to get up to are only a short distance above me. The reason for 15 feet of rope is in the case of using the ring. As it goes over the anchor pipe/bar/whatever and comes back down it's length will be halved until you thread the hook through and secure it. This means if I had only 6' of rope and the pipe/bar was 5' out of my arm reach I would not have enough to secure it. So the full 15 feet is really only necessary because I often need double the distance to my target.
I tripled the spaced knots in my rope so I could use them to climb with either by holding onto them or by placing my hands between the two individual sections. This can cause a lot of pressure on the sides of the hand as you climb because your weight is pulling the line taught. However it is not that bad for the feet because of rigid soled shoes.
The grapple I mentioned has only one tine/projection and of course does not work as well as one with a triangular configuration. This is because a triangular grapple will always hold it's self up and is much more easily secured. However I don't need my large grapple very often and I like the compactness and lighter weight of my own.
I used a rock piton because they are designed as a safety device and are tested to ensure they can withstand the stresses encountered in climbing. However this is only when a fall occurs. If the grapple is positively secured then the only falling you might be doing is if you slip off the line and that of course is up to you to prevent.
If you choose to use a grapple, hook or whatever be sure you use quality climbing rope, accept NO substitutions! I use thinner line than is used for actual rock climbing for two reasons. One because I am using it for very short distances and if I do fall the danger of injury is rather small. I will try to find a better/safer way inside a building if I must go up more than 10 feet (read as distance out of arms reach). The second reason is I like to carry as little weight as possible, it is quieter and does not wear you down as quickly as carrying a full 100' of rope, carabiners, big ass rebar hook thing like I've seen out there plus camera stuff, water/food etc etc.
Sometimes depending on the location I will bring 50' - 100' of dynamic rope if I feel I may have to rappel out a window for any reason. Dynamic rope is designed to be more elastic than static rope and is the ONLY rope suited for high climbs or rappels. This is the only rope that will save your life if you fall (and only if you brake before hitting the ground/you placed protection devices in the wall) and the small amount of money you pay for it is beyond worth it.
When I decide to bring that much rope I will also bring a descender and harness. NEVER try do go down a high rope without proper equipment. I climb several times a week for hours at a time and while my hands are very strong I still use a harness and descender to go down anything higher than 25'.
Commercially available hooks-
There are a number of hooks/grapples out there on the market, some of them are good and some of them are simply dangerous. The most popular one is of course the cheapo folding grapple that goes for about $20 pictured below.
THIS IS DANGEROUS, DO NOT USE! It is made from some unknown iron in most cases and I even saw one made from aluminum. Aluminum can be very strong but this grapple no matter where it is found is NOT designed or manufactured to be used as a safety device. It does not have the strength to hold you and I have seen them bend dramatically under light testing.
There are other grapples out there which I have included that are quite good. The down side is their pricetags, they can range between $70 and $600 depending on where you look. Below are my top picks for grapples from best to least desirable (note that all of them are well made).
Here are two that are about the same in terms of quality of construction. The first one would be my number one choice. It is collapsible, very well made, weighs only 1.5lbs and can normally be found for around $200.
This one is very strong but quite a bit larger and much more expensive. Still a very good choice depending on the location. Very well made.
This hook is alright but the tines or arms are made from Aluminum. This is still a far superior choice to any of the cheapo models out there.
This grapple was on Tad Gear for a while but is not anymore. It is two pieces (or the welded model) of steel which fit together with a ring on the end of them for securing rope. They look pretty heavy though and the tips of the arms are very round which would give them no grip at all. It would however be suitable for small diameter pipe and such where the entire arm could be utilized.
When you have made a successful toss with your hook test the line by holding the rope and leaning back. Then without removing the tension on the line place your full weight on the rope and wait a few moments to ensure it is secure. After you have done this and intend to scale your line do not let off the tension on the rope at all. This may cause the grapple to shift or come completely unsecured (if it is say inside a window where you cannot see it).
When using a grapple I prefer if at all possible to be able to see where it is secured to, this way I know for certain if it is anchored safely. If you choose to trust it is secured to something unknown inside a window or at the top of a structure bear in mind it may not stay that way. It might be caught on some small pipe, wires or a tiny projection of brick or window sill lining. This is another reason I only use a grapple for short distances.
If you are trying to get inside a window for example and there is another, higher place to secure the hook (like the roof or another window) then aim for that point. This way when you climb up the rope you can climb to the full height of the window and can much more easily go inside. So instead of reaching the window ledge and having to haul yourself over it without knocking your grapple off, losing your footing or falling you can simply step in.
Like climbing ropes I recommend that you carefully inspect your grapple before you go out to use it and after you have come back (if you did in fact use it to scale something). This way any wear will be noticed before it becomes dangerous and you can decide if it is still safe to use. If you wrapped the hook with tape this will not only reduce noise you will make but will also protect your hook from impact which will prolong it's life a great deal. If your hook is steel (even stainless) then remove the tape every month or so to make sure it has not started to corrode. If it has use a cloth to rub it off (if it is very light) or I recommend using polishing compound (Mothers works very well) to take it off completely. If moisture has gotten under the tape the rusting may be much worse so by inspecting it regularly you will know how it is doing and if it needs maintenance.
If you use the hook often either for practice or during explores then inspect it more often and replace damaged tape frequently. If when you remove the tape (say it's been a while since you used it or it got wet etc) there is a lot of rust first polish it off, wash it in warm water with soap and then inspect. If the rust went deeper than a few millimeters the hook may no longer be safe (of course depending on the thickness of the material). Also be aware and look for stress cracks, a common magnifying glass will help a lot. If you do see cracks retire the hook permanently and get yourself a new one.
I realize these measures may sound extreme but how much is your life and health worth to you?
Also like climbing rope it is best to store the hook (especially taped ones) in a cool and dry place until you plan to use it. It is even a good idea to put it in an air/water tight container such as a dry bag (found at outdoors stores) or a pelican case. You can use something cheaper like a couple ziplocks with all the air rolled out first. Whichever way you go the better you take care of your safety equipment the better it can take care of you.
I have many other grapple pictures but decided to keep this as clutter free as possible. If you buy or make your own hook be sure to test it thoroughly before trusting your life to it.
"I have come here to chew bubble gum and kick ass, and I'm all out of bubble gum"
http://i22.photobu...er_zpsdbf6a059.gif |
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\/adder
   
Location: DunkarooLand
Gender: Male
I'm the worst of the best but I'm in this race.
| |  | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 1 on 3/26/2009 9:49 PM >
| | | | Let me redirect you to another thread for more info.
http://www.uer.ca/...fid=1&threadid=815
Awesome Job on your walk through though.
"No risk, no reward, no fun."
"Go all the way or walk away"
escensi omnis... |
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Olaf
Location: Wilmingon, NC
Gender: Male
| | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 2 on 3/26/2009 9:54 PM >
| | | | Yes and it is archived so it cannot be added to which is why I started this instead of just posting it in that thread.
"I have come here to chew bubble gum and kick ass, and I'm all out of bubble gum"
http://i22.photobu...er_zpsdbf6a059.gif |
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yokes
   
Location: Toronto
Gender: Male
I aim to misbehave
| |  | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 3 on 3/26/2009 10:02 PM >
| | | | For those .. huskier .. explorers, are these weight rated?
"Great architecture has only two natural enemies: water and stupid men." - Richard Nickel |
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yokes
Location: Toronto
Gender: Male
I aim to misbehave
| | | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 5 on 3/26/2009 10:04 PM >
| | | | Guess I'll have to go on a diet. Oh well.
"Great architecture has only two natural enemies: water and stupid men." - Richard Nickel |
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Olaf
Location: Wilmingon, NC
Gender: Male
| | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 6 on 3/26/2009 10:09 PM >
| | | | Look up
"I have come here to chew bubble gum and kick ass, and I'm all out of bubble gum"
http://i22.photobu...er_zpsdbf6a059.gif |
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\/adder
Location: DunkarooLand
Gender: Male
I'm the worst of the best but I'm in this race.
| | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 7 on 3/26/2009 10:21 PM >
| | | |
These are being sold on ebay for $99.
"No risk, no reward, no fun."
"Go all the way or walk away"
escensi omnis... |
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Olaf
Location: Wilmingon, NC
Gender: Male
| | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 8 on 3/26/2009 10:23 PM >
| | | | Go for it, the tines are round but they can be dressed up with a grinder (carefully, slowly so you don't damage the temper) to give them a sharp tip. Just take your time if you do this and quench often.
[last edit 3/26/2009 10:23 PM by Olaf - edited 1 times]
"I have come here to chew bubble gum and kick ass, and I'm all out of bubble gum"
http://i22.photobu...er_zpsdbf6a059.gif |
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MindHacker
Location: Suburbs of DC
Gender: Male
If you spot a terrorist arrow, pin it to the wall with your shoulder.
| | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 9 on 3/29/2009 8:57 PM >
| | | | Normally if I'm going to cast a line I'll use a biner, with a sock over it and doubled back a few times.
I've also found a hook on a pole to be as useful as a grappling hook. It's not as concealable, and can only reach ~15' high (atleast with the poles I have) but its a nice way to grab a pipe or ledge that a hook might slide off / past.
If you aren't soloing, have someone spot you, and reset the hook for the next person up.
"That's just my opinion. I would, however, advocate for explosive breaching, since speed and looking cool are both concerns in my job."-Wilkinshire |
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Olaf
Location: Wilmingon, NC
Gender: Male
| | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 10 on 3/29/2009 11:03 PM >
| | | | A good idea, I have to solo myself all the time but good advice for those who do not. I've never used a pole to set the hook but if it works for you then keep doing it. The biner is also a good idea, I just prefer a ring as it is good for other things.
"I have come here to chew bubble gum and kick ass, and I'm all out of bubble gum"
http://i22.photobu...er_zpsdbf6a059.gif |
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Pravus
Location: Chicago Area
Gender: Male
Now the two key words for tonight - "caution" and "flammable"...
| |  | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 11 on 5/3/2009 9:09 AM >
| | | | We have a few of those cheap ass ones you recommend not using.. and yea, they kinda suck.. we got a few of them for $10 each, threw the rope it came with away and we toss the hook after it even slightly bends really..
Back a while ago I made a thread about ways to climb rope and went over some basic climbing gear/techniques, has alot to do with this topic as well although I think alot of retouching could be done to that post I made so long ago.. Anywhoo here it is, if someone finds some use from it, Kickass..
http://www.uer.ca/...rrpage=2&pp#post23
Live to Serve, Serve to Live.. |
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takeonlypictures
 
Location: Arizona
Barbed wire is the enemy!
| | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 12 on 5/12/2009 1:05 AM >
| | | | Great walkthrough. I have a grappling hook, but its really cheap and most likely not the safest around. I dont weigh too much though. I really wish there was a way to make a do it yourself grappling hook.
Take only what will not be missed, leave only what will not be noticed. |
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takeonlypictures
Location: Arizona
Barbed wire is the enemy!
| | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 13 on 5/12/2009 1:07 AM >
| | | | would you say this is at all safe? It was really cheap.
Take only what will not be missed, leave only what will not be noticed. |
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AnAppleSnail
Location: Charlotte, NC
Gender: Male
ALL the flashlights!
| | | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 14 on 5/12/2009 1:20 AM >
| | | | Posted by takeonlypictures
would you say this is at all safe? It was really cheap.
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Looks like the crosspiece is held straight by a spring holding it into its notch. Unlikely safe!
Achievement Unlocked
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\/adder
Location: DunkarooLand
Gender: Male
I'm the worst of the best but I'm in this race.
| | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 15 on 5/12/2009 1:50 AM >
| | | | Posted by AnAppleSnail
Looks like the crosspiece is held straight by a spring holding it into its notch. Unlikely safe!
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You can make one cheaper anyways...
http://www.uer.ca/...urrpage=1&pp#post5
"No risk, no reward, no fun."
"Go all the way or walk away"
escensi omnis... |
|
takeonlypictures
Location: Arizona
Barbed wire is the enemy!
| | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 16 on 5/13/2009 1:27 AM >
| | | | Thanks for the heads up. I have that cheapo hook. Although i have been using it for about a year and it has held up for the time ive had it. I havent noticed any extreme bending. but then again, i only weigh 130 lbs. I just dont have the cash to buy a $200 grappling hook, when, quite frankly I dont use it that often in the kind of urban exploration i do. But thanks for the advice.
Take only what will not be missed, leave only what will not be noticed. |
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Pravus
Location: Chicago Area
Gender: Male
Now the two key words for tonight - "caution" and "flammable"...
| | | | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 17 on 5/28/2009 6:27 PM >
| | | | Posted by takeonlypictures
would you say this is at all safe? It was really cheap.
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safe is really relative.. That is the one we have used for a while.. we have about 4 of them and toss them after a bit of abuse, the most I have weighed while using one of those was 170ish? Normally they get more bent from the initial throw then when they are actually hooked on something.. we only use the hook to get the first person up, then they would secure the rope in a better way for the rest.. that hook is a massive POS, but it's cheap, remember to inspect it before using it and don't hesitate throwing it out after it's been bent much.. Bending it back will only weaken the already weak metal, due to it's construction it's very prone to bending/breaking in the center where the threading binds them..
As a side note the rope that comes with it I would also toss, or just use as accessory cord for making prusik knots at best.. That rope is too thin to really climb well and we have actually had the rope snap under weight.. Go get yourself some 11mm climbing rope (I'd recommend static line personally, but thats just me)
Live to Serve, Serve to Live.. |
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takeonlypictures
Location: Arizona
Barbed wire is the enemy!
| | Re: Grapple tutorial
<Reply # 18 on 6/8/2009 4:21 AM >
| | | | Posted by Pravus
safe is really relative.. That is the one we have used for a while.. we have about 4 of them and toss them after a bit of abuse, the most I have weighed while using one of those was 170ish? Normally they get more bent from the initial throw then when they are actually hooked on something.. we only use the hook to get the first person up, then they would secure the rope in a better way for the rest.. that hook is a massive POS, but it's cheap, remember to inspect it before using it and don't hesitate throwing it out after it's been bent much.. Bending it back will only weaken the already weak metal, due to it's construction it's very prone to bending/breaking in the center where the threading binds them..
As a side note the rope that comes with it I would also toss, or just use as accessory cord for making prusik knots at best.. That rope is too thin to really climb well and we have actually had the rope snap under weight.. Go get yourself some 11mm climbing rope (I'd recommend static line personally, but thats just me)
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Yeah, I use static climbing line with the hook. The rope that cam with it was not quality at all. Its a little too thick for prusiks, I use utility nylon rope. Ive had some scary situations with that hook though. I was about 20 feet up the rope and the grapple slipped to the point where it was almost falling off. So I unclipped my harness from the rope and slid down on one loosened prusik. Haha i don't trust that hook anymore.
Take only what will not be missed, leave only what will not be noticed. |
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