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digital_me
Location: Colorado Gender: Male Total Likes: 1 like
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro
| | | | DIY LED lights (or not) < on 3/16/2009 10:42 PM > | Reply with Quote
| | | If a man were to want to construct an LED light from available parts (i.e. drop in LED units, bodies, batteries), but was highly intimidated by the choices available and the technical language, what would he do? Ideally, said LED light should be cheap(ish), bright(ish), and use rechargeable batteries. Or would he be better off purchasing a light from a fine company such as SureFire, JetBeam, or Fenix?
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| SeeThirty
Location: Indialantic, Florida Gender: Male Total Likes: 0 likes
| | | | | | Re: DIY LED lights (or not) < Reply # 5 on 3/30/2009 5:00 PM > | Reply with Quote
| | | If I was to construct an LED light for myself, I'd have either 1 mode, or Low/Turbo. I am personally miffed at the trend in clicking 4 or more times on a tail-cap just to select the mode you want. Let the tail-cap turn the light on, and a simple twist of the bezel determine mode. Low somewhere between 10 and 30 lumens, Turbo somewhere over 120 lumens, depending on your preferences for runtime/brightness plus consistent regulation. The light should remain bright and consistent through the majority of battery life. To give you an example of how a light should not be...Surefire's incandescent lights are a wonderfully bad example. Only maintains max brightness for all of 5-10 minutes, and then it's a steep downhill plunge to 50%. All of my present LED lights have proper and consistent regulation. Now, one thing I would like, when a light drops out of regulation as the battery staggers on it's last legs, is if it slowly reduced output over the next few minutes. Strobing is nice and 'deliberate', but I'd rather have the light trail off, so I can still see what I'm doing while I find a spare battery. Next, body. I like a thick, solid, rugged tube. It should be able to punch into something without denting in on itself. Hard HA-III anodized. Double O-Rings. It should be able to be submersed in water at least a couple of feet without cutting out. A glow-in-the-dark tailcap might be nice. Those tactical grip-rings are also nice. I'd have the tube come apart toward the rear and have a grip-ring attach there, with a knurled cover for the grip-ring's threads when it wasn't around. I'd also do the same up front, having the possibility of a strike bezel (a ring with steel machined 'teeth' for self-defense), and a standard threaded bezel interchangeable. I absolutely insist on a tactical-style tail-cap if I were designing the light myself, with a momentary-on setting, as well as a lockout feature to prevent accidentally turning on. Batteries, I'd probably have it accept CR-124A, as well as rechargeables. An interesting idea, might be to power it with a couple of '23A' batteries. These things put out 12 volts each, and are used to power the 'Glo-Toob' device. A bit uncommon as far as batteries go, but I bet they'd make a pretty powerful flashlight. I'd also like to have a battery tray set up so I could pop in batteries that didn't otherwise fit in the tube.
| 12/17/2007 (somewhere in AvChat) [10:29:47] <Lexi> Personally I don't really like her music [10:29:50] <Lexi> But goddamn [10:29:59] <Lexi> I'd lick her dry. |
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