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 MIAD
  
Location: Here and There NSW Australia
Gender: Male
Off The Radar
 |  |  | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 20 on 1/11/2011 12:31 AM >
|  | | | Posted by swizzler
But you probably crank your ISO through the roof and get shit loads of noise.
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IS doesn't do anything but stop camera shake and help with framing, in low light you still have to use high ISO or a fast apature to get a fast shutter speed to stop fast motion, IS doesn't do a thing for increasing shutter speed just makes it possible to shoot at slow shutter speeds without camera shake
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swizzler
 
Location: Ontario
Gender: Male
| | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 21 on 1/11/2011 12:40 AM >
| | | | Posted by MIAD
IS doesn't do anything but stop camera shake and help with framing, in low light you still have to use high ISO or a fast apature to get a fast shutter speed to stop fast motion, IS doesn't do a thing for increasing shutter speed just makes it possible to shoot at slow shutter speeds without camera shake
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Uh, um, are you new?? Increasing the ISO will allow the shutter speed to be increased thus eliminating the likelihood of camera shake.
Canon EOS 5DMKII | EF 24-105 f/4L | EF 17-40 f/4L | EF 50mm f/1.8 II | Yashica Electro 35 GS |
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Canadavey
 
This member has been banned. See the banlist for more information.
Location: York Region
Gender: Male
Dehr.
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 22 on 1/11/2011 1:05 AM >
| | | | Posted by swizzler
Uh, um, are you new?? Increasing the ISO will allow the shutter speed to be increased thus eliminating the likelihood of camera shake.
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It'll also increase the likelihood that your picture will look like a projection on stucco. Yay!
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\/adder
 
Location: DunkarooLand
Gender: Male
I'm the worst of the best but I'm in this race.
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 23 on 1/11/2011 1:46 AM >
| | | | Posted by swizzler
Uh, um, are you new?? Increasing the ISO will allow the shutter speed to be increased thus eliminating the likelihood of camera shake.
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http://en.wikipedi...t#Image_stabilizer
| The image stabilization (IS) technology detects handheld motion and optically corrects it. It only corrects handheld motion; if the subject of the photograph is moving, IS will not stop it. It also can only stabilize so much motion, ranging from two to five stops, depending on the specific IS in the lens. Canon has released several versions of the IS system, including the following: |
Shooting indoors at ISO 100 f/2.8 is still often in the 1-4 second range.
But let's say you are shooting basketball professionally and let's assume you have the EF 200mm f/2, sure a $6000 lens but one of the best lenses available with five stops IS and a full stop in aperture over the majority of top glass.
So f/2.0 iso 100 meters 1/2 second
Extra five stops let's you handhold a 200mm lens steady at a 1/10 second but you still have to raise your ISO to 400 to let in the same amount of light.
but 1/10 would result in motion blur you'd need at least a 1/50 so your iso would still need to be at least ISO 1600 which on a 5dmkII 1ds, or 7d is not too shabby.
That is where IS is not useful, but essential.
tl;dr BUT IS doesn't help you get your lines straight: doesn't keep your camera level, doesn't keep the focal plane level, doesn't fend off violent hobos ... but a tripod does.
When shooting "still life" or "architectural" photography you generally use higher f/stops because you want 90% of that generic hallway shot to be in focus.
So invest in a tripod if you want a tool that can store your lockpicks in a place cops won't check (in the legs, pull the rubber stopper off), use as leverage when getting that door or window open help you produce great images.
And a tripod can allow you to protect your camera gear pocket change from that harmless exceedingly violent hobo when he tries to ask for a dollar mug you and share his rabies and AIDS.
If you want to be able to use your camera to pistol whip a [harmless] violent homeless and still have the shot be in sharp focus as he recoils ... well then actually maybe you should get an IS lens...
[last edit 1/11/2011 1:54 AM by \/adder - edited 2 times]
"No risk, no reward, no fun."
"Go all the way or walk away"
escensi omnis... |
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The Seeker
  
Location: Greater Toronto Area
Gender: Male
Time's Person of the Year for 2006
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 24 on 1/11/2011 3:17 AM >
| | | | Posted by swizzler
But you probably crank your ISO through the roof and get shit loads of noise.
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1600, and LOTS of processing and noise reduction..  and even then, there is still noise... i need the 70-200 f/2.8!!!
Sony a7II | Canon 5D mkII | Canon Rebel XSi | Sony 28mm f/2.0 | Yashica 50mm f/1.9 | Sigma 15mm f/2.8 fisheye | Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 | Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM | Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 |
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The Seeker
Location: Greater Toronto Area
Gender: Male
Time's Person of the Year for 2006
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 25 on 1/11/2011 3:22 AM >
| | | | Posted by swizzler
Uh, um, are you new?? Increasing the ISO will allow the shutter speed to be increased thus eliminating the likelihood of camera shake.
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+1
i go for low apertures and ISO over IS, especially since i am barely getting by with having to pay for college and all... that extra couple hundred bucks i save buying non-IS, means an extra couple weeks worth of food... maybe one day if im filthy rich, ill go buy IS lenses.
Sony a7II | Canon 5D mkII | Canon Rebel XSi | Sony 28mm f/2.0 | Yashica 50mm f/1.9 | Sigma 15mm f/2.8 fisheye | Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 | Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM | Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 |
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ZenCanadian
Location: High Park, Toronto
Gender: Male
| | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 26 on 1/11/2011 3:32 AM >
| | | | Don't want lots of noise but can't afford a fast nice lens with is...get a frikken tripod, use low iso and go longer exposure.
Zen and the art of infiltration...
http://www.flikr.com/photos/zenslens
Zen is an uber explorer, a demi god of craning and purveyor of the finer things in life. |
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The Seeker
Location: Greater Toronto Area
Gender: Male
Time's Person of the Year for 2006
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 27 on 1/11/2011 3:34 AM >
| | | | Nothing AMAZING, or Awe-Inspiring, but hey, with what i can afford, it works, and both myself, the players in the shots, and their families, are plenty happy with the shots. and for those that disagree and think they are crap, no i don't sell them, because i dont think my sports shots are worth selling yet...
Point being, I'm with Swizzler on this one...
Sharks-22 by Scott Jarvis Sports Photos, on Flickr
Sharks-18 by Scott Jarvis Sports Photos, on Flickr
Sharks-14 by Scott Jarvis Sports Photos, on Flickr
Sharks-10 by Scott Jarvis Sports Photos, on Flickr
Devils 3 by Scott Jarvis Sports Photos, on Flickr
Devils 4 by Scott Jarvis Sports Photos, on Flickr
Cudas 5 by Scott Jarvis Sports Photos, on Flickr
Cudas 2 by Scott Jarvis Sports Photos, on Flickr
Sony a7II | Canon 5D mkII | Canon Rebel XSi | Sony 28mm f/2.0 | Yashica 50mm f/1.9 | Sigma 15mm f/2.8 fisheye | Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 | Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM | Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 |
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The Seeker
Location: Greater Toronto Area
Gender: Male
Time's Person of the Year for 2006
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 28 on 1/11/2011 3:36 AM >
| | | | Posted by ZenCanadian
Don't want lots of noise but can't afford a fast nice lens with is...get a frikken tripod, use low iso and go longer exposure.
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if the subject isnt moving, this is generally the way to go! NONE of my lense are IS... apart from the 18-55... but i very rarely use that anymore...
Sony a7II | Canon 5D mkII | Canon Rebel XSi | Sony 28mm f/2.0 | Yashica 50mm f/1.9 | Sigma 15mm f/2.8 fisheye | Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 | Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM | Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 |
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Byberrian Fanman
Location: Fuck You
Gender: Male
| | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 29 on 1/11/2011 4:45 AM >
| | | | Posted by TheVicariousVadder
The f1.8II sucks, bad focus motor, bad bokeh, cheap construction, it's sharp in the middle wide open and sharper stopped down but isn't that what you'd expect a primes to be? |
Very VERY few 50mm lenses actually have 'good' bokeh, the Sigma is one of the few exceptions. The 50mm f/1.8 Mk. II only sucks optically if you get a sub-par sample. However.. yes, the build quality is absolutely atrocious. What one should do is look for a used 50mm f/1.8 Mk. I instead, as it has the same build quality as the EF 24mm f/2.8, 28mm f/2.8 and 35mm f/2 (metal mount, higher-grade plastics, probably also has a better motor).
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XScarAudio
Location: Tampa, FL
Gender: Male
| |  | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 30 on 1/11/2011 2:17 PM >
| | | | For $99, it is a spectacular out and about or portrait lens though.
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\/adder
Location: DunkarooLand
Gender: Male
I'm the worst of the best but I'm in this race.
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 31 on 1/11/2011 4:08 PM >
| | | | Posted by Byberrian Fanman
What one should do is look for a used 50mm f/1.8 Mk. I instead, as it has the same build quality as the EF 24mm f/2.8, 28mm f/2.8 and 35mm f/2 (metal mount, higher-grade plastics, probably also has a better motor).
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The $100 price tag is the only selling point of this lens. And if you were going to spend $200, you may as get a more useful focal length like the EF 28mm or EF 35mm.
As for bokeh most lenses have at least six aperture blades ... the 50mkI has five meaning it's still the worst in it's class. I just looked up the EF 28mm and EF 35mm specs ... they also have five blade apertures. More reason to go third party.
The EF 35mm f/1.4 L has 8 blades. The Sigma 30mm has 8 blades. And the Tokina 35mm has 9 blades.
There are so many better options than this lens. Pick any sub-100mm prime made by anybody that works on an Canon APS-C system and it will be a better option than this lens. This is the worst prime available.
"No risk, no reward, no fun."
"Go all the way or walk away"
escensi omnis... |
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XScarAudio
Location: Tampa, FL
Gender: Male
| | | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 32 on 1/11/2011 4:28 PM >
| | | | Posted by XScarAudio
For $99, it is a spectacular out and about or portrait lens though.
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For this, referring to the F/1.8 50mm made by canon
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swizzler
Location: Ontario
Gender: Male
| | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 34 on 1/11/2011 4:50 PM >
| | | | Posted by TheVicariousVadder
This is the worst prime available.
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Bottom line - you get what you pay for.
I'd personally love either the EF 35mm f/1.4L, or the EF 50mm f/1.2L but they're both upwards of $1,400.
Canon EOS 5DMKII | EF 24-105 f/4L | EF 17-40 f/4L | EF 50mm f/1.8 II | Yashica Electro 35 GS |
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Byberrian Fanman
Location: Fuck You
Gender: Male
| | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 35 on 1/11/2011 6:24 PM >
| | | | Posted by TheVicariousVadder
The $100 price tag is the only selling point of this lens. And if you were going to spend $200, you may as get a more useful focal length like the EF 28mm or EF 35mm. |
I found one of these, along with a Canon EOS 630 body, for $4... one just needs to know where to look.
As for bokeh most lenses have at least six aperture blades ... the 50mkI has five meaning it's still the worst in it's class. I just looked up the EF 28mm and EF 35mm specs ... they also have five blade apertures. More reason to go third party.
The EF 35mm f/1.4 L has 8 blades. The Sigma 30mm has 8 blades. And the Tokina 35mm has 9 blades. |
As far as the number of blades is concerned.. yes, putting a 5 blade diaphragm in a 50mm lens IS indeed, stupid as hell. Canon, going back to the FD and FL eras, has ALWAYS had a 5 blade diaphragm in its 50mm f/1.8 lenses.. think of it as a shitty Canon tradition of being cheaper than Nikon. (In the past, more diaphragm blades in SLR lenses made them more expensive. For instance, Nikon's first four lenses of 1959 (3.5cm f/2.8, 5cm f/2, 10.5cm f/2.5 and 13.5cm f/3.5) all had 9 blades.. but due to the expense, they were all reduced to the conventional 6 blade configuration a couple years later.)
However, a 5 blade diaphragm in a lens of a shorter focal length (24mm f/2.8, 28mm f/2.8, 35mm f/2) is only a shitty decision if the lens itself is prone to flare and ghosting, as one would presumably not want to see obvious pentagonal ghosts in one's images. Also.. wider, slower lenses such as these aren't usually used for shallow depth-of-field, where you'd see the pentagonal bokeh (when stopped down) produced by the lens's diaphragm.
Nikon was one of the first manufacturers to have 7 and 9 blade diaphragms in their SLR lenses. Nikon has never made a lens with 8 blades, that's Canon's traditional (and in my opinion, inferior) pro standard.
These days, most of everything new has either 7, 8 or 9 blades. For some reason, manufacturers have become obsessed with rounded blades, so the diaphragm remains rounded as it is stopped down; in this case, more blades are good. This really helps with fast and long lenses, in regards to stopped-down bokeh. However, it also lets manufacturers get away with making lenses less resistant to ghosting, as the ghosts would be rounded and less disturbing. A rounded diaphragm also prevents or severely hinders the creation of sunstars.. this SUCKS.
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MIAD
Location: Here and There NSW Australia
Gender: Male
Off The Radar
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 36 on 1/12/2011 6:42 AM >
| | | | Posted by swizzler
Uh, um, are you new?? Increasing the ISO will allow the shutter speed to be increased thus eliminating the likelihood of camera shake.
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Thats what I said, I said IS doesnt do anything but stop camera shake making it hand holdable at lower shutter speeds, higher ISO or faster appature stops camera shake and stops the motion if your shooting movement by giving you a faster shutter speed and they are usually more useful I find than IS. Might have worded it a bit poorly in my last post
As for the 50mm f1.8II being crap, it is cheep and nasty but there are a few things it is more useful for than the others in its range such as the 28mm, I use mine mainly for IR photos, the 28mm and 35mm cause hot spots, as does my 30mm f1.4 Sigma. Its good in that case, but otherwise I would use my Sigma 30mm any day over it
edit:spelling and stated wrong lens
[last edit 1/12/2011 6:47 AM by MIAD - edited 1 times]
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The Seeker
Location: Greater Toronto Area
Gender: Male
Time's Person of the Year for 2006
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 37 on 1/12/2011 8:15 AM >
| | | | Posted by swizzler
Bottom line - you get what you pay for.
I'd personally love either the EF 35mm f/1.4L, or the EF 50mm f/1.2L but they're both upwards of $1,400.
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+1
i think both those lenses would be very much fun and useful!
Sony a7II | Canon 5D mkII | Canon Rebel XSi | Sony 28mm f/2.0 | Yashica 50mm f/1.9 | Sigma 15mm f/2.8 fisheye | Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 | Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM | Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 |
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OpenTrackRacer
| | | Re: Lens Recommendations
<Reply # 38 on 1/13/2011 4:08 AM >
| | | | The Sigma 10-20 is a great lens for this sort of thing. A cheap 8mm fisheye like the Peleng is a lot of fun too. If you really want to capture some excellent scenes buy (or rent) a tilt-shift lens. They're loads of fun.
[last edit 1/13/2011 4:08 AM by OpenTrackRacer - edited 1 times]
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