|
Alright, So I've decided to try and restore my old van. It's sat for years. Needs alot of body work and some engine work. Now, Me and my father have taken out all the bolts holding the engine in. But the thing won't drop. Anyone have an clues as to what could be holding it in?
CONservative governMENt http://www.flickr....s/actofdepression/ “Global warming kills more people than 9/11 every week.” www.myspace.com/ttwg |
|
Hey, that's good news! Sounds like the engine is hung up on the pilot shaft of the tranny... you'll need to get something in between the engine/tranny to pry the two apart. Make sure the engine is supported by a jack or something while you're doing this.
hi i like cars |
|
on type IV buses, i prefer to take the engine and trans out as a unit, because it's more of a struggle to separate the engine and trans while still in the bus there's very little room and a good chance you will bend the cooling tin. it's really a wash as to time and effort involved and can only be worse on the first try and never having done it before. have you got the back end up on stands? what will you be using to support the engine while you are lowering it out of the bus? are you absolutely sure the engine needs to come out at all? it will be much more difficult to diagnose a fuel/ignition system problem with the engine when it is on the ground. unless your problem is with the tin/cooling system/rotating assembly leave it in until it's running properly....
Mentos... The Freshmaker |
|
I was thinking about that last night... and you beat me to posting it On the Porsche 914 (which uses essentially the same drivetrain, just mounted backwards),it's impossible to get the engine out without removing the tranny with it. What I have done before n leaving the tranny in is use a cherry picker style engine hoist and just support the engine through the upper access hole with it, then gently drop it out the bottom by lowering the hoist.
[last edit 1/22/2010 5:58 PM by bandi - edited 1 times]
hi i like cars |
|
Posted by bandi I was thinking about that last night... and you beat me to posting it On the Porsche 914 (which uses essentially the same drivetrain, just mounted backwards),it's impossible to get the engine out without removing the tranny with it. What I have done before n leaving the tranny in is use a cherry picker style engine hoist and just support the engine through the upper access hole with it, then gently drop it out the bottom by lowering the hoist.
|
how much difference is there between the van and the same year Super Beetle?
|
|
'72 buses and supers share almost no parts.
Mentos... The Freshmaker |
|
What he said. One noteable difference between a Bug and a van is the van engine uses a rear engine mount (kind of a cross-bar type deal), where the Beetle engine just hangs off of the tranny by four bolts, and has no real engine mounts. I mean, essentially the van is just an overgrown Beetle (Not Super Beetle as much as a standard Bug, the Super had a MacPherson strut front end), but it doesn't share many parts.
hi i like cars |
|
Another good person also to talk to about specifcally the vans is SteamPunk here on UER.
|
|
The engine needs new heads. I want to take the engine out and get it rebuilt.
CONservative governMENt http://www.flickr....s/actofdepression/ “Global warming kills more people than 9/11 every week.” www.myspace.com/ttwg |
|
yes, the engine will have to be removed to replace the heads. number one problem with type IV heads is dropped seats due to an overheat. the best thing you can do is make sure all, i mean ALL cooling system components including thermostat and cooling tin bits are installed and working correctly, make sure your carbs are not running lean, sync them before you drive, and install a cylinder head temperature gauge and sender. Dakota Digital makes the most reliable and accurate gauge, but the VDO is passable. the premise is simple: when the gauge reads 450, lift the throttle. you will never drop a seat on those expensive ehads if you don't let the gauge climb past 450. proper cooling and cylinder head temp is absolutely critical on a type IV engine, which is why i'm not a big fan of them in a bus. if youre a beginner, you'll have no clue, fry your heads on a big hill and then get roundhoused in the jaw when you find out how much itll cost to fix it. ive seen so many new bus owners have a meltdown over this. if the body is solid and you can keep the heads under control, youll have a great time with it. keep us posted.
Mentos... The Freshmaker |
|
oh, stay away from GEX and mofoco. youre not far from boston bob, try getting in touch with him through thesamba, he will do a thorough job at a reasonable price.
Mentos... The Freshmaker |
|
Posted by steponmebbbboom oh, stay away from GEX and mofoco. |
RUN away from GEX and Mofoco. Don't walk. I actually installed a GEX 2.0 (customer supplied) in a customer's vanagon a few years ago. Wouldn't start and sounded like it had no compression whatsoever. Heads were left loose on both sides from factory.
hi i like cars |
|
odd coincidence, there's a '72 that just rolled into the scrap lot across the street from where i work. completely rusted out but mostly complete... i just snagged the fullwidth folding rear seat out of it for $20... has a few other nice parts like VGC blade bumpers and front tire mount, but nothing i need. it might be there for another week before they smash it.
Mentos... The Freshmaker |