Posted by terapr0 haha yea I know the store you're talking about....army issue...it's like just down the street from my house. The prices arent the best but they've got some cool stuff for such a small store. So I ended up buying the TK40...at first glance, it's nice. Hard to tell if its brighter than the solarforce L1200...they're such different lights, its tough to compare between LED & Halogen. I'll try and post some shots after I use it tonight

Brighter than the 1200! Wow! I always wanted that thing, but not so much now . Good to know that MC-E lights stack up well.

Posted by metawaffle Brighter than the 1200! Wow! I always wanted that thing, but not so much now . Good to know that MC-E lights stack up well.

After thorough testing last night, I think the L1200 is actually a little brighter. Not by much tho, and it's a different kind of light than the TK40. The fenix is really clean and makes for nice reflections and such.





Those were lit with the TK40 and L1200 together....I never actually thought I'd say it, but they're almost too bright. Not used to needing such a small aperture in big draynes like that.

after last night, I can definitely vouch for the "waterproof" rating on both these torches

Posted by terapr0 Those were lit with the TK40 and L1200 together....I never actually thought I'd say it, but they're almost too bright. Not used to needing such a small aperture in big draynes like that.

I can definitely second this. Those things were CRAZY bright! They stirred up a lot of flashlight envy within me, that's for sure.

Posted by metawaffle So, I bought a TK30, after my Solarforce Masterpiece died (the seller is replacing it for me, though). The TK30 is essentially a TK40 that runs on 18650/16430 batteries instead of AAs, so, you can pick your power source, really. Really, the things you pay for in expensive lights are reliability and user interface. So, hopefully it'll prove reliable, and here's a run-down on the interface: It has three sets of two modes. That sounds confusing. Let me explain: When you're using the light, it has two modes, selected by loosing or tightening the head, same as with many other lights, including the PD30 and such. The thing is, there are three possible sets of outputs it'll use, which one can select from these: 1) 100 lumens / 600 lumens 2) strobe / 600 lumens 3) 40 lumens / 120 lumens Actually, I made up the numbers for the last one - suffice to say that both outputs are low. So, I use set 1, which exactly what I wanted. tightening and loosening the head rapidly a few times switches mode sets. Is that clear? Probably not. Anyway, it's a nice light, and I have no complaints so far. So, compared to the Solarforce? Well, I have to say I liked the styling of the Masterpiece better. The chunky square knurling on the body is just so nice. Don't get me wrong, the Fenix is nice, too, but I just like the overall look and feel of the Solarforce better. Let me find some pictures: http://www.boker.d...gross/09fntk30.jpg http://www.fischer.../Masterpieceii.jpg The modes of the Fenix do suit me better, though. The Solarforce just cycles between low, medium, and high - I think from memory it comes on in high mode if it's been off for a few seconds, or something. Anyway, they're both good http://lh3.ggpht.c...SAA-47-Edit-sm.jpg

So, now I finally have both of these lights at the same time. In my hand, I like the Solarforce better - so nice and chunky and solid. You could certainly club someone with it if you felt so inclined. The Fenix doesn't have that same inspiring robustness.

The modes on the Fenix suit me better, personally, though I only use the Hi - Low option, and the rest of the silly mode stuff is irrelevant.

Would I get the Solarforce or the Fenix... hmm. The Fenix costs 50% more than the Solarforce...

Dammit, I was using both those lights last night, and I really do wish I had a combination of the two lights - the Solarforce construction and styling with the Fenix modes.

Posted by ExplorerLoki One complaint about the TK-40, the switch is REALLY easy to bump on, if you throw it in a pack with other junk it will get switched on.

This. I put my TK40 on low output and tuck the switch end into a glove for this very reason. Fantastic light for light painting and for throwing down long drain sections. Carries well in a D maglite belt ring.

Photons, baby!

Posted by haveg0als This. I put my TK40 on low output and tuck the switch end into a glove for this very reason. Fantastic light for light painting and for throwing down long drain sections. Carries well in a D maglite belt ring. Photons, baby!

I can't remember if anyone has talked about this already, but can you just unscrew the tailcap a little to lock it out?

lol, yeah I read that after replying and sure enough.

Posted by metawaffle I can't remember if anyone has talked about this already, but can you just unscrew the tailcap a little to lock it out?

That's what I do, it's become a habit. Haven't had any problems with it unscrewing further and falling off.

I want a TK40. I had been using a Lenser 7736D (a mere 100 lumens) because someone gave it to me for free, as well as a £5 incandescent/fluoro Duracell. The Lenser's circuit started getting flaky, and then it simply stopped working after I dropped it onto gravel from a low height. No screws or anything that would allow access inside to fix it.

A decent torch like the TK40 would be nice. No more minute-long exposures. The LD20 is more within my price range, but maybe I'll get a contribution for Christmas. Haven't done much underground stuff in comparison to most people here probably, but I intend to, and a proper torch would be a good investment, and useful beyond subterranean situations as well (like hurricane season back home in the 305).

One thing I don't like is the white/blue harshness of LED light. I always used my LED light for navigation, but the cheapo incandescent for light painting because I liked its orangey tint. Suppose I could just use some orange acetate over an LED light, but that's not the point! I didn't realize there were any incandescent torches that could compare in brightness to LEDs. How often do you have to change the bulb in a Solarforce L1200? Seems like a bulb dying is not something I'd want to have to worry about in a drain. I also prefer that the TK40 runs off the ubiquitous AA's.


EDIT: Oh, and it seems that DealExtreme has the TK40 for $126 with free shipping, but it is "temporarily sold out." Cheapest price I've seen it at so far.

Yeah, the TK40 is a lot cheaper than it used to be! Not exactly budget territory, though.

If you like the orangey tints, though, have a look at the warm tint Quarks from 4Sevens.com. There is much rambling about the Quarks elsewhere on this board, especially from me

Just to give an idea of the tints, check out this image:



The foreground is lit with a neutral tint Quark. The side pipe to the right is lit with a warm tint Quark. The area around me and off down the tunnel is lit with a cool tint Quark, and a Fenix TK30.

Here's another warm vs cool example (warm Quark and Fenix TK30):



The only downside to the warms is that you sacrifice some brightness compared to the cools.

Those are some nice shots!

Thanks for the advice. I liked the warm light when I did some red brick tunnels in the UK, and the muddy catacombs in France. I just remembered though that I thought it looked nasty in the only concrete tunnel I did. We seem to have mostly concrete here in North America, so it might be better to have a cool colored torch after all. Might be nice to have a warm Quark as a secondary light though. Hm...

I think my ideal setup would be:

1) Fenix TK40 (main light, concrete photography)
2) Warm White 2xAA Quark (secondary light, red brick photography)
3) Upgraded Mini Maglite (tertiary backup)

Others
Cheapo headlamp (hands free)
£5 Duracell torch with fluoro in handle (green light good in both brick/concrete)
Carbide lamp (catacombs only)

Posted by Cardinal Awol I think my ideal setup would be: 1) Fenix TK40 (main light, concrete photography) 2) Warm White 2xAA Quark (secondary light, red brick photography) 3) Upgraded Mini Maglite (tertiary backup) Others Cheapo headlamp (hands free) £5 Duracell torch with fluoro in handle (green light good in both brick/concrete) Carbide lamp (catacombs only)

Consider the Neutral White Quark, or shell out for a high CRI LED unit.

Posted by AnAppleSnail Consider the Neutral White Quark, or shell out for a high CRI LED unit.

I don't think the neutral Quark is close enough to incandescent color for my taste. Haven't heard of high CRI before... doing some Googling now. Do you have a recommendation for a flashlight that comes with a high CRI LED? Or is it possible to buy a high CRI LED and put it into a flashlight bought separately?

Posted by Cardinal Awol I don't think the neutral Quark is close enough to incandescent color for my taste. Haven't heard of high CRI before... doing some Googling now. Do you have a recommendation for a flashlight that comes with a high CRI LED? Or is it possible to buy a high CRI LED and put it into a flashlight bought separately?

I don't have personal recommendations because they tend to be special-order things and therefore pretty pricey. Candlepowerforums knows about a few of them, but I haven't researched them in a while.

Don't think I can afford a TK40 and a high CRI LED.

Although the Warm Quark isn't super bright, I'm sure it's brighter than the £5 incandescent Duracell I was using. Also, the Duracell was a good long range spotlight but it sucked at close-up floods, and I'm sure the Quark's better in that respect as well, judging from Metawaffle's photos. The Duracell was also susceptible to moisture and its construction was weak as hell. So even if the Warm Quark's not the best, it'll be an upgrade for me. Only reason I'd still keep the Duracell around would be for the fluoro in its handle. Hm... I bet I can chop the Duracell up, pull out the incandescent bits so its a dedicated fluoro, and make a smaller/stronger/waterproof housing.

Are there any flashlight brands besides 4seven/Quark that have "warm" LEDs?
Also, Metawaffle, how long were the exposures in those photos?

Posted by metawaffle Yeah, the TK40 is a lot cheaper than it used to be! Not exactly budget territory, though. If you like the orangey tints, though, have a look at the warm tint Quarks from 4Sevens.com. There is much rambling about the Quarks elsewhere on this board, especially from me Just to give an idea of the tints, check out this image: http://lh4.ggpht.c...12-SAA_7839-sm.jpg The foreground is lit with a neutral tint Quark. The side pipe to the right is lit with a warm tint Quark. The area around me and off down the tunnel is lit with a cool tint Quark, and a Fenix TK30. Here's another warm vs cool example (warm Quark and Fenix TK30): http://lh6.ggpht.c...12-SAA_7848-sm.jpg The only downside to the warms is that you sacrifice some brightness compared to the cools.

What was the white balance set to for the first shot? I am wondering why the neutral quark looks kind of warm in this shot even compared to he warm quark....I guess it could just be the colour of the bricks.

Posted by Cardinal Awol Although the Warm Quark isn't super bright, I'm sure it's brighter than the £5 incandescent Duracell I was using.

It's much brighter than the 2xCR123 incan I was using previously!

Also, the Duracell was a good long range spotlight but it sucked at close-up floods, and I'm sure the Quark's better in that respect as well, judging from Metawaffle's photos.

Definitely. It's not a big thrower, by any means. The beam is pretty floody, with quite a broad hotspot. I've been using diffusers a lot, anyway, though.

Are there any flashlight brands besides 4seven/Quark that have "warm" LEDs? Also, Metawaffle, how long were the exposures in those photos?

I don't know of any offhand - even those Quarks are a limited run for enthusiasts, and don't ship in retail packaging like the regular ones do. I just like those because of the interface and the reasonable price. And the low-low setting, as always

I did see a warm MC-E light for sale on dealextreme for some silly low price, but I have no idea how 'warm' it actually is. It may well be more a neutral tone.

Posted by accessgranted What was the white balance set to for the first shot? I am wondering why the neutral quark looks kind of warm in this shot even compared to he warm quark....I guess it could just be the colour of the bricks.

Maybe I should shoot something a bit more deliberate to compare the colours...