This is my first solo urbex. I had 30 minutes and I noticed a some old train cars sitting on the tracks so I decided to check them out. This is also my first experience with Nighttime photography so please give me any tips you have or ideas for photographing train cars.
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(Shot with a Gopro Hero4 Silver)

I don't know if this is possible with a GoPro, but I would either do a longer exposure or raise the ISO at night.

Posted by dashsquared I don't know if this is possible with a GoPro, but I would either do a longer exposure or raise the ISO at night.

The Gopro does have some ISO settings but I was mainly experimenting with exposure this trip. Most of the pictures are taken with a 15 second exposure. The ISO was set at 800 for all of them but I'll try some experimentation with that setting next time thanks.

Posted by Anderskyl The Gopro does have some ISO settings but I was mainly experimenting with exposure this trip. Most of the pictures are taken with a 15 second exposure. The ISO was set at 800 for all of them but I'll try some experimentation with that setting next time thanks.

You'd have to tell us exactly how low the ISO can go, and how long the exposure can be set to. Low ISO around 100 is far better for darkness, but with a trade-off, meaning you'll need a much longer exposure time, probably 30 seconds or more in comparison with what you did here... And the lens would also need to remain perfectly still. Also, is there an aperture setting on that thing?

Posted by General Zod You'd have to tell us exactly how low the ISO can go, and how long the exposure can be set to. Low ISO around 100 is far better for darkness, but with a trade-off, meaning you'll need a much longer exposure time, probably 30 seconds or more in comparison with what you did here... And the lens would also need to remain perfectly still. Also, is there an aperture setting on that thing?

The ISO settings go from 100 to 800, I think the setting I had it on was 800 with 15 second exposure, the camera can go up to 30 seconds. Also it does not have aperture settings since it's just a wide angle lens.

Posted by Anderskyl The ISO settings go from 100 to 800, I think the setting I had it on was 800 with 15 second exposure, the camera can go up to 30 seconds. Also it does not have aperture settings since it's just a wide angle lens.

Ah, I see. Well, if it is video capture it's a different story, but you will still benefit in picture quality with lower ISO. The problem is that it might be too dark without a long exposure. IF you decide to set the camera down and keep it perfectly still for 30 seconds, then that, combined with the lowest ISO possible is your best bet. On top of this, you can try to increase whatever exposure settings are built in.

You want the widest aperture lense you can get. Shoot wide open or stopped down maybe to f/2. A 50mm f/1.2 does nicely.
Use a red laser to get your AF lock on where you want it.
Moving trains make cool images.

Be very careful working around tracks and trains. Do not run unless it's to get out of the way of a train! Falling on a track will crack ribs and skulls. Wash outs on the grading at ties can break ankles; wear high top lace boots and take your time.

Give at least 10 feet side clearance to a moving train. Never underestimate the speed and closing distance of a moving train.
UER has lost 2 members to trains.

Posted by blackhawk You want the widest aperture lense you can get. Shoot wide open or stopped down maybe to f/2. A 50mm f/1.2 does nicely. Use a red laser to get your AF lock on where you want it. Moving trains make cool images. Be very careful working around tracks and trains. Do not run unless it's to get out of the way of a train! Falling on a track will crack ribs and skulls. Wash outs on the grading at ties can break ankles; wear high top lace boots and take your time. Give at least 10 feet side clearance to a moving train. Never underestimate the speed and closing distance of a moving train. UER has lost 2 members to trains.

remember though, he's using a GoPro.

Posted by blackhawk You want the widest aperture lense you can get. Shoot wide open or stopped down maybe to f/2. A 50mm f/1.2 does nicely. Use a red laser to get your AF lock on where you want it. Moving trains make cool images. Be very careful working around tracks and trains. Do not run unless it's to get out of the way of a train! Falling on a track will crack ribs and skulls. Wash outs on the grading at ties can break ankles; wear high top lace boots and take your time. Give at least 10 feet side clearance to a moving train. Never underestimate the speed and closing distance of a moving train. UER has lost 2 members to trains.

Thanks for the warning, these trains were stationary and I didn't see any trains come by either but I wasn't even thinking about that when I was there so I'll remember that next time.

Posted by General Zod remember though, he's using a GoPro.

Sorry, not familiar with that system.

Posted by Anderskyl Thanks for the warning, these trains were stationary and I didn't see any trains come by either but I wasn't even thinking about that when I was there so I'll remember that next time.

Train tracks are dangerous as hell. I have friend that tripped and hit his head on the rail, I tripped on one rail and try breaking my fall with my arm. Unfortunately the second rail is perfectly positioned to get your ribs. Still have a dent on my side you can feel.

On active tracks trains may appear at any time. Use the utmost caution around both. They bite hard when you misstep. Remember hoses, chains, and cargo can come loose or be hanging off the side of cars. Things can get kicked up too.
On multiple tracks the danger is much greater. Never assume there's only one train; wait until it passes before crossing. More than one person has been killed like this.

Track switches with auto controllers are dangerous places; they may become active at any time. Avoid walking around them.

Posted by Anderskyl The ISO settings go from 100 to 800, I think the setting I had it on was 800 with 15 second exposure, the camera can go up to 30 seconds. Also it does not have aperture settings since it's just a wide angle lens.

400 ISO for 30 seconds is the best you can in your case if you need 15secs @ 800 to get the pictures to come out at the right brightness.

Posted by blackhawk Sorry, not familiar with that system.

GoPro is video capture, never still camera capture, so people's advice for still camera shots gets tossed right out the window.... That's basically the point I was trying to make.

Posted by General Zod GoPro is video capture, never still camera capture, so people's advice for still camera shots gets tossed right out the window.... That's basically the point I was trying to make.

Yeah, that's a different animal. Some things still apply.

From what I read the cam's native ISO seems to be 100. So as you said that plus longer exposure. If you can't do a long enough exposure, dial up the ISO setting.
These cams seem to shoot RAW images, if so, try using it. It will give you more control over the image exposure allowing at least a couple f/stops of exposure to play with. Draw backs are more memory is used and much more post processing is needed.

Here's a night shooting link from their site:
https://gopro.com/...-photo-night-lapse

Posted by blackhawk Yeah, that's a different animal. Some things still apply. From what I read the cam's native ISO seems to be 100. So as you said that plus longer exposure. If you can't do a long enough exposure, dial up the ISO setting. These cams seem to shoot RAW images, if so, try using it. It will give you more control over the image exposure allowing at least a couple f/stops of exposure to play with. Draw backs are more memory is used and much more post processing is needed. Here's a night shooting link from their site: https://gopro.com/...-photo-night-lapse

Thanks for the input and especially the link, the info on that page really helped.
Sadly the GoPro does not actually shoot in RAW, it does have a similar feature but it's not RAW, Thanks for the help, I definitely will try to lower the ISO though since most of the photos are at 15 seconds at 800 ISO, I'll experiment with that next time I get out.

Also thanks everyone who has responded to this thread I have learned a lot already and hope to keep learning.

The only photography-related thing I'll add is be careful of the reflective tape strips on the cars - they'll pick up any light you shine at them and amplify it right back, ruining the aesthetics of your image (unless you can use it in a creative way).

I just wanted to second the whole rail-safety thing. I was a railfan for a little while and actually worked as a passenger conductor this past summer on a remote train line (so many ghost towns too!). Trains can, surprisingly, sneak up on you in a hurry. I know an employee who lost his hand after it got sandwiched between two couplers.

95%+ engineers and conductors will tell you stories of having to watch entire families die when they try to beat a train at a road crossing, or people walking down the tracks that simply don't hear them coming in time. Even if cars look secure, they can have slack in the couplers that can suddenly bunch up, crushing anything between them.

One time I was walking through the yard, came around a parked cut of cars, and crossed the tracks about 2 car lengths in front of a pair of freight locomotives that were heading my way. I didn't look hard enough before I crossed, and even 2 cars was tight enough for that crew to give me an earful.

Sorry I didn't mean to derail this thread, keep up the good work but keep your head on a swivel. Railroading is a dangerous field.