|Posted by Speed|
That was achieve by opening the photo in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR)
I never brought the image into photoshop.
I do the vast majority of my processing in ACR. very little of my editing is done in photoshop. ACR is extremely powerful especially if you get things right in the camera. I HATE being tied to a computer but very much enjoy the process and craft of photography so I chose to spend my time behind the camera instead of in front of the computer fixing images in post.
Deuterium, as a side, your image is a bit hot. The highlights are really bright (actually, they're blown out) making the rest of the image hard to manage. I find with night shots its usually better to be underexposed a bit rather than overexposed. I shoot night stuff with the consideration that its going to be tweaked a bit in post. With that in mind I try to manage my highlights and not blow them out. I can add fill light to brighten up the darks but once the highlights are blown they're impossible to reel back. Granted night stuff is tricky to shoot because of the huge contrast in LV.
Hadn't used ARC, the Canon DP always did a nice job. I don't playing endlessly with an edit. Better to set up the exposure right in the first place. I use manual settings a lot for shots like this.
|Posted by Deuterium|
Should I do a spot metering on the brightest spot and do a +1 EV when multiple shot for later adjustment isn't possible?
If it's a high end cam it will have many exposure zones, use them! Understanding the technology in your specific cam and how it works will help you to get the most out of it. Digital cams metering zones are much more sophisticated than a film cam, but only if you use them correctly.
Spot metering is useful if that object is the focal point of the photo.
Play with the exposure weighing settings to see what works best for your cam, then dail in the exposure.