Few can drive over the Sooke River bridge heading to Port Renfrew and fail to notice the fairy tale-like Sooke River Hotel. With its wandering footprint and bright red roof, I'm actually a bit surprised there aren't more accidents out front. As rich with character as this charming place is though, it's but a fragment of a larger more opulent property.



The grand four story Belvedere Hotel was built on the bluffs high above the Sooke River in 1912 and boasted outstanding views in all directions of Sooke River, Sooke harbour, Government wharf and Whiffin Spit. The grand house was frequented by artist Emily Carr. Film stars would call the Belvedere home while on extravagant fishing and hunting excursions, and even the Prince of Whales was a guest at least twice.


The current hotel was but a stable for the hotel's riding horses and was built in 1919, but when the mighty Belvedere was lost in a spectacular fire in 1934 and never rebuilt, those empty overgrown stables were converted into a new hotel four years later, in 1938. This second Sooke River Hotel, with some additions, remains today.


Noteworthy ruins of the 1912 Belvedere Hotel remain today too, although well hidden in the formerly manicured ivy, holly and scotch broom. The full foundation of the stately hotel, with stairs still leading to the expansive gardens, is here. So too is the foundation and sizeable debris field of the hotel's steam and electricity plant.

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Of note are the towering stone pillers of the grand portico, that were salvaged from the hotel site some years ago by the Sooke Historical Society and erected in nearby Ed Macgregor Park.

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