IMG_1936 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
In 1781, a small town north of Edinburgh became home to Scotland's first asylum for the insane, described as a "house and garden" on the outskirts of the town center. By the early 19th century, this institution was already experiencing overcrowding, which in turn contributed to deteriorating conditions. In 1858, a new asylum was completed on a parcel of farmland in an adjacent village, while the original site was vacated. Increased capacity at the new complex allowed for stringent requirements for admission to be relaxed.
Despite the increased space, the number of patients continued to grow, reaching 670 by 1900. Over the next 10 years, several additional buildings were constructed, including an infirmary, cottages and 2 "detached villas". During World War II, steps were taken to protect the asylum and its patients, including gas proofing and sandbagging of basement windows and the issuance of gas masks. In October of 1940, five high explosive bombs fell on the hospital grounds, breaking windows and causing injuries, but with no casualties. Due to bomb damage at other asylums, many additional patients were temporarily housed here, increasing the number of patients beyond 1000 for the first and only time.
The asylum's most famous patient was Charles Altamont Doyle, father of author Arthur Conan Doyle. Struggling with alcoholism and depression, Doyle was admitted to the asylum in May 1885, after a violent escape attempt from a nursing home. Plagued by delusions and visions, Doyle spent much of his time drawing and sketching, with an emphasis on fantastical scenes and beings. This piece, titled 'The Spirits of the Prisoners', depicts these creatures swooping around the asylum.(Courtesy of Angus Folklore) Over the next few decades, the asylum underwent many changes as advances were made in the field of mental health. As asylums across Scotland were consolidated, the hospital saw its resident population steadily drop. Meanwhile, improvements were made to increase quality of life for patients and staff, including modernization of several wards, installation of radiators, and the introduction of television sets in the wards during the 1950's. The population continued to dwindle until the hospital officially closed in 2011.
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While this asylum is well known among the UK exploring community, I had only heard of it upon my arrival last winter. However, even as I researched the site and looked at other's photos, it held a certain sense of mystery, a large mental hospital tucked far away in the hills of Scotland. Despite its popularity among explorers, its remote location and inconsistent site security made it a bit of a gamble to access. Even if it was a shot in the dark, though, I just had to see it for myself. Near the end of the semester, with my workload lightening, I made plans for the 12-hour round trip, not sure what to expect.
After a six-hour train ride, and a long walk from the station to the village, the hospital grounds were a breath of fresh air. A vast expanse of lawn led up to the main building and infirmary, and in the other direction, the North Sea glimmered on the horizon. I spent much of the afternoon scouting the site for access, and just enjoying the day. I wasn't alone, as quite a few locals strolled or walked their dogs. With a helpful tip from Mookster, plus a bit of dumb luck, I had a way in; I would check into my B&B, get some food and sleep, and return under the cover of darkness.
Early the next morning, I made my way back to the hospital grounds. With the sun still below the horizon, all was quiet and still, and the structures on the hill loomed ahead.
The main building:
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IMG_1953 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
The infirmary:
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IMG_1967 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
Before setting up my camera, I took some time to wander the dark halls of the main building. Initially, the decor seemed rather clinical and beige; this wing had clearly been modernized.
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IMG_2009 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
A peek out a window, towards the building's main hall:
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IMG_2300 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
However, as I made my way through the building, beige gave way to more vibrant blues and yellows, and the structure's original charm began to show through. In a few spots, only a doorway or stairwell stood between the old and the new.
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S-2190 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2338 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2360 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2145 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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Su-2361 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
From here, it was on to the upper levels...
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IMG_2045 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2421 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2080 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2307 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2320 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2101 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
...Then down to the basement:
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IMG_2403 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
Even on an uncommon sunny day, the basement cells and rooms enjoyed little natural light; low ceilings and small windows made for a gloomy atmosphere. I'd imagine patients were housed here only as a last resort when space was limited.
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IMG_2291 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
A small record storage room:
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IMG_2296 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
Around the corner, a series of tunnels connect utilities between the power plant and various outbuildings:
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IMG_2286 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2299 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
After a quick walk to the village for some breakfast, I returned to check out more of the main building, including the main hall. The woodwork and decor in here were absolutely stunning, and these features were accentuated by the morning light pouring through the hall's massive windows. It was also here that I met a couple of other explorers, among the handful of people I'd meet here throughout the day.
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S-2480 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2397 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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S-2243 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2257 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
A painted backdrop still hangs behind the stage:
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IMG_2262 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
Meanwhile, the studio of a small radio station, once run with the help of patients, remains scattered with paperwork and equipment.
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IMG_2391 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
Behind the hall, cavernous food preparation, maintenance and storage rooms sat largely empty.
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IMG_2222 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2381 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2442 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_2377 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
In a small outbuilding, underneath the main chapel, a tiny mortuary and chapel of rest:
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Su-1907 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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IMG_1895 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
The interior of the infirmary, where a series of sprawling rooms once housed ill patients:
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Su-2491 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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Su-2495 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
Camera batteries dead, and a bit exhausted, I took one last walk around the property, taking photos with my phone:
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20180506_160105 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
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20180506_154801 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
...And finally, one last shot of the main building:
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20180505_172325 by
Sanitarium Sean, on Flickr
Even after hours of exploring over two days, I still felt there was plenty I had missed, as many buildings remained tightly sealed. The stunning combination of architecture and natural setting, however, made this one of my favorite locations to date. Furthermore, in studying the hospital's history, I developed a special appreciation for this it's story. While it experienced periods of overpopulation, it seems to have avoided many of the mistakes that plagued countless other mental institutions. Instead of accounts of patient neglect and abuse, I found stories of hard-working staff and superintendents that genuinely cared about the health of their residents. Even in the original asylum's early days, when mental health was much less understood, the hospital was seen as a source of pride for the community, a benefit as opposed to a burden.
Not long after my visit, fences were put up around the main building as work began to redevelop the property; much of the open land will be converted to housing, while several outbuildings are slated to be demolished. Thankfully, however, the main building and infirmary will be spared, and will hopefully be re-purposed. Some aspects of the plan remain unclear, but in one form or another, this asylum will live on.
Thanks for looking!